History is happening. Don't believe it? Check your watch! It just happened. Was it exciting? Nah, but the moment to moment history is rarely an exciting ordeal. It often takes an event, or at least a period of time in which to set our focus for history to begin adding up and turning into something memorable.
Montana is ripe with the history of the United States' westward expansion into the unknown mountains and plains beyond the Mississippi River. From land-grabbing and settlers to traders and trappers to mercantile companies, Montana grew as a territory for the strong-willed and those not so easily faint of heart. Ramshackle collections of tents turned to shanty towns turned to settlements which either prospered or faded into the annals of history depending upon the bounty that could be harvested from the surrounding land. Come find out what made these early outposts either prosper or die in Glacier Country.
Region 1
Apgar Fire Lookout
Originally constructed in 1929 for use by Forest Rangers, this structure was destroyed only two weeks after completion by a fire. A replacement structure took its place immediately afterwards and can still be arrived at by trail. This lookout is only one in a chain of manned fire lookout posts within the park.
Belly River Ranger Station Historic District
In West Glacier, this site includes several historic structures, and remains the only ranger station in Glacier Park which cannot be accessed by road. It was erected in 1912 and had a fire cache, which was used to store firefighting tools. A few structures still stand, including the original ranger station that is now used as a barn.
Belton Chalet
An interesting stop no matter what century you're from. This Swiss-style chalet originally housed adventurous park visitors heading out to backcountry chalets and tent camps in the park. The only access to this chalet at the time of construction was the Great Northern Railway through the area. During construction of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, the Chalet served as sleeping and living quarters for members of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).
Conrad Mansion
The Victorian-style mansion that housed Charles E. Conrad, one of the founders of Kalispell, and his family. Sitting atop a bluff overlooking the lower part of the valley and Swan Range, the home is located on the edge of the original townsite of Kalispell. Built in 1895, the mansion was occupied by Charles' youngest daughter, Alicia Conrad Campbell, until 1964 and then given ten years later to the city of Kalispell in 1974 in memory of her pioneering parents. For more information on this historical landmark in Kalispell, please visit their website.
East Glacier Ranger Station Historic District
This site is characteristic of park buildings constructed during the 1920s and 30s. This site was originally constructed to provide administrative services to the east side of the park, due to there being no quick access to the western side before the completion of the Going-to-the-Sun Road. After the roads completion, the duties of this site moved to the more accessible Saint Mary's Ranger Station.
Going-to-the-Sun Road
Known originally as the Transmountain Highway, the Going-to-the-Sun Road was an engineering feat beyond comparison. In 1915, Stephen Mather and his assistant Horace Albright made a horseback trip over Gunsight Pass and determined it would be too cost-prohibitive and difficult to run the road over Gunsight as had been planned. After nearly 15 years of construction, the road made connection with the eastern side of the park at Logan Pass. Construction employed roughly 300 men at its high point, and over 250 tons of explosives were used in the excavation. A very complete history of the road can be found at this address: travel.state.mt.us/whatsnew/features/BUILDING.htm
Granite Park Chalet
Built in 1914 by the Great Northern Railroad. This chalet made up one of the eight total backcountry chalets, and is one of the only two that still exist today. Only accessible by a moderate seven-mile hike along the Highline Trail, the chalet has rustic accommodations for any wishing to spend a night here.
Lake McDonald Lodge Historic District
Put up in 1914 on the shore of Lake McDonald, the lodge still rents out rooms to guests of the park. The current building is the second hotel on its site. The first hotel, known as the Glacier Hotel, was later torn down by new owners around 1906 to make way for, "something worthy of the park." A complete description of the current building can be found here.
Sperry Chalet
Dating back to 1913 when Great Northern Railway tycoon James Hill and his son had the Chalet built. Sitting up high on a rock ledge where nothing can obstruct the view, Lake McDonald can be seen in the valley below. Backcountry lodging accommodations were popular in the park at the time because the area was accessible only by foot or horseback. A rather strenuous 7 mile trail with a 3,300 foot elevation gain will give access to the hiker looking for this site.
Region 2
Alta Ranger Station
The Alta Ranger Station is listed on the National Historic Registry (as are most of the sites on this list) and can be found south of Conner in the Bitterroot National Forest. It was constructed by early Forest Rangers Than Wilkerson and Henry Tuttle. It is a one-room lodgepole cabin with a sod roof built in June of 1899. It is marked as the first ranger station in the United States, and still stands on the West Fork Ranger District.
Daly Mansion
Daly Mansion was the summer home of Copper Baron and millionaire Marcus Daly, his wife and their four children. A 24,000 square foot mansion with 25 bedrooms and 15 bathrooms in the heart of the Bitterroot Valley.
Florence Hotel
Located in downtown Missoula, the Florence Hotel was constructed in 1941. This however was not the first of the hotels, as the two previous Florence Hotels both burned to the ground in the same location that the current one stands. It was built to accommodate the increasing number of automobile travelers passing through the Missoula area, and included an interior, multi-level parking garage. The architecture is an example of Art Moderne and now is used primarily as an office building. It is a worthwhile stop in the downtown area. If nothing else, to see the lobby which has been refurbished to its original state.
Fort Fizzle
The name just about says it all. During the halted construction of Fort Missoula, Captain Rawn and Missoula area volunteers erected a barricade on the Lolo Trail in an attempt to halt the advance of Chief Joseph during the Nez Perce war. Advance scouts with the Indian tribe took notice of the barricade and led the Nez Perce, with their horses and possessions up a steep ravine behind the ridge north of the barricade and bypassed the soldiers. This maneuver earned White Bird the nickname of the "Indian Hannibal." The barricade, previously unnamed, became known as the ridiculed Fort Fizzle.
Fort Missoula
Originally established in 1877 as a U.S. Army permanent military post on the southwest end of town, Fort Missoula was built in response to local requests for protection in the event of conflict with Western Montana Indian tribes. The fort never had walls, rather it was an "open fort", a design common for posts located west of the Mississippi. This particular design requires troops to take the offensive and actively patrol the area to which they are assigned. The construction of the fort went rather smoothly until it was halted for the reason of stopping the advance of Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce. The fort was used as a military training center for WWI, designated the HQ for the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in 1933, turned over to the Department of Immigration and Naturalization in 1941 for use as an alien detention center for non-military Italian and Japanese-American men, used as a prison for military personnel accused of military crimes and other personnel awaiting court-martial following WWII, and finally decommissioned in 1941 when many of the buildings were either sold or dismantled. There is still much to see at the fort, and a museum of its history on site. Please visit the museum's website for more information.
Fort Owen
The site of Fort Owen is considered the first permanent white settlement in Montana. It was established by Major John Owen as a regional trade center in 1850 and many of the structures are still standing. A museum is located on site and the fort features period furnishings, artifacts and restored rooms and barracks. Please visit fwp.mt.gov/lands/site_280846.aspx for more information.
Historic Roxy Theatre
The Historic Roxy Theatre is a treasured landmark in the city of Missoula. For years it served the citizens as a dollar theatre until the structure was gutted by a fire in 1994, after which it stood vacant for many years. The building eventually found itself under new ownership, was remodeled, and then closed again after the owners failed to turn a profit out of it as a commercial cinema. The building remained vacant until in 2002 the International Wildlife Media Center (IWMC) began a campaign to raise funds to purchase the theatre, which succeeded and is now hosting the IWMC's events and also serves as an art gallery stop in town. For further information, visit www.wildlifefilms.org.
Historic Wilma Theatre
The Historic Wilma Theatre on the southern reaches of downtown Missoula is a lasting monument to people such as W.A. 'Billy' Simons and Edna Wilma Simons who pioneered efforts to draw in culture and live entertainment to the developing state of Montana. The structure was built in 1921 in a Chicago style by William Simons, a man who produced early wild west shows. His wife, Edna, was a renowned light-opera star who made a name for herself performing on the Pantages Vaudeville circuit. After her husband's death, she continued to operate the Wilma and other theater chains in the northwest. The structure is unmistakable in Missoula with its hundreds of lights, 1920s era box office, and 1,067 seat theatre which still sees many large stage performances and movie presentations to this day. Visit the Wilma's website.
Magruder Ranger Station
Built in 1923, the Magruder Ranger Station was originally the district headquarters for the Selway National Forest until it was transferred to Bitterroot National Forest in 1931. It is a two-story, five-room log house located on Magruder Road #468, 52 miles southwest of Darby.
McCart Fire Lookout
McCart Fire Lookout was constructed in 1939 as a 10' pole tower topped with an L-4 cab and staffed into the mid 1980s when it was replaced by nearby Teepee Point Lookout. It sits at an elevation of 7,115' and has been refurbished and added to the national forest's recreational rental program.
Missoula County Courthouse
Missoula's County Courthouse is like so many other courthouses around the country in that it provides a service to the local citizens. What makes this courthouse a worthwhile visit are the eight large murals by Edgar Samuel Paxson (best known for painting "Custer's Last Stand" - finished in 1899), and the interior architecture of the building. The murals all depict early Montana history and took two years to complete; from 1912 - 1914. The main entrance (on the south side of the building) leads into a rotunda extending upwards and culminating in an ornately decorated dome. Plaster columns supporting the rotunda are Doric on the basement level, Iconic on the main floor and Corinthian on the second floor. This neoclassical sandstone structure -- completed in 1910 -- encompasses an entire city block and was one of the many architectural works done by Missoula's premier architect, A.J. Gibson.
Northern Pacific Railroad
The arrival of the Northern Pacific Railroad was a boon to industry and commercial businesses in the Missoula area. The depot, on the edge of downtown Missoula, was opened in 1901, 18 years after the arrival of the rail line in 1883. The building is an example of the Renaissance Revival architecture dominating the north end of downtown.
St. Francis Xavier
St. Francis Xavier stands tall with its pointed steeple on the western edge of downtown just past the county courthouse. Constructed in 1889, the same year that Montana became a state, this historic structure is in the Romanesque architectural style and boasts large stained glass windows and magnificent paintings done by a brother of the Society of Jesus. The artist was a kitchen helper who painted these works in his spare time.
Stevensville Hotel
The Stevensville Hotel was constructed in 1910 by A.J. Gibson for Dr. William Thornton who used it as the first hospital in the entire Bitterroot Valley. The style is Classic Revival with arched windows and Tuscan columns. More information can be found here.
Travelers' Rest State Park
Also along the Lolo Trail you can find Travelers' Rest State Park which is the only campsite on the Lewis and Clark Trail that has produced physical evidence of the expedition's presence. Used primarily by the Salish, Pend d'Oreille and Nez Perce tribes as a campsite and trail junction for centuries, the Corps of Discovery found itself here from September 9 - 11, 1805 and again on its way back east from June 30 - July 3, 1806. More Info...
U.S. Forest Service Remount Depot (Ninemile Ranger Station)
The U.S. Forest Service Remount Depot (Ninemile Ranger Station) was used historically as a place that provided experienced packers, pack animals for fighting fires and supporting backcountry work projects throughout the vast roadless reaches of the northern Rockies. During the rise of automobiles, people began to sell their pack animals for modern transportation, and local supplies of pack and saddle stock started to disappear. In 1929 the rangers realized there wouldn't be enough pack animals available for hire to supply crews fighting remote fires and the region, and established the remount depot to raise and train quality pack and saddle stock. The site is modeled after U.S. Army Cavalry remount depots, and bred saddle horses for forest rangers. The barracks housed experienced packers and transportation that could be ready to mobilize in minutes for firefighting. When not fire fighting, the mules packed supplies to trail crews and freighted construction materials to remote mountain tops to build fire lookouts. In the 1940s, aerial firefighting was pioneered at Ninemile and an early smokejumper base was established at Camp Menard, roughly one mile north of the ranger station. Because of the increasing effectiveness of aerial firefighting, regional foresters decided to close the Ninemile Remount Depot which is now home to the Northern Region Pack Train of nine pack mules which are handled by two experienced Forest Service packers. These pack animals are kept active to work in areas designated as restricted to vehicular travel by the 1964 Wilderness Act by Congress which directs the Forest Service to manage some special areas to preserve their wild character. "No roads, no mechanized equipment are appropriate in wilderness." For further reading.
University of Montana
The University of Montana attests to Western Montana's drive for higher education and the importance of knowledge to those of us living in the state. Opened in 1893 to public institutional control and located directly outside of Hellgate Canyon, the U's location was described in 1895 as, "...the playground for the Hellgate blizzards." UM boasts the Mansfield Library, which is designated as a depository for government documents, eight Pulitzer Prize winners and many (17th in the nation) Rhodes Scholars. For a more thorough run of the University's history, visit www.missoulacvb.org/um.php.
Region 3
Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad Company Historic District
Also known as the Milwaukee Road, it was the United States' last transcontinental railroad. In order to compete with the Northern Pacific Railroad and Great Northern Railway, it had to construct a rail line from the Midwest to the Pacific coast and chose to cross the Bitterroot Mountains at St. Paul Pass near St. Regis because no competing railroad was nearby, and the area had plentiful white pine timber. The Pacific Extension -- as this part is known -- boasts 26 bridges and 14 tunnels, the longest of which was 8,771 feet long. In 1914 the railroad was electrified through its mountain segments with Catenary Lines placed over the tracks. The portion from Loop Creek to East Portal has been made into a bike trail known as the Route of the Hiawatha.
DeBorgia Schoolhouse
One of the only buildings in the area to survive the 1910 fires, this structure that was built in 1908 is a two-room, two-story schoolhouse erected in a narrow mountain corridor that once was a busy crossroads of Native American trails, the Mullan Trail, the Milwaukee and Pacific Northern railroads and old Highway 10. It served students in grades 1-8 until it closed in 1956 because most children were traveling to St. Regis for schooling. It now finds use as the community center for the west end of Mineral County. Located outside of Thompson Falls on DeBorgia Road.
Gildersleeve Mine
The Gildersleeve Mine area comprises the most complete depression-era mining camp remaining in Western Montana. It is located within the Cedar Creek Historic Mining District in the Lolo National Forest near Superior. The property is the heart of a family-run hard rock mining operation established and run by the Gildersleeve family.
